The Talbot MacPherson Traverse and Fiordland Slab Climbing
28/12/2019 - 29/12/2019
Party: Conor Vaessen, Tom Hadley
After a night spent at some high quality accommodation (camped in a paddock near Gore), we parked at Homer Tunnel and tilted our heads back to take in today’s objective, the Talbot MacPherson traverse. This traverse of between the peaks MacPherson and Talbot is the classic mountaineering day trip of the Darrans mountains and has been enjoyed by generations of kiwi alpinists.
As we started climbing towards Talbot’s ladder, the sheer immensity of the Darrans was impressed upon us. The looming granite monoliths around us formed an incredible amphitheatre of grey rock, soaring into the dramatic cloudscapes above. Once the ridge was gained, we made our way up the section named Talbot’s Ladder. The rock steepened, and the snow covered ledges became thinner. Conor led the way up the fantastic rock, flowing from between wonderful handholds towards the peak above.
 |
| Tom beginning the ascent of Talbot's Ladder (Conor Vaessen) |
Once on the snow, we made rapid progress, ticking off MacPherson, which afforded incredible views through the patchy cloud into the massive valleys below. We traveled along mellow snow slopes leading towards Traverse Pass. The final section involved a fun bit of steep ridgeline traversing, which claimed Conor’s trusty glove. After dropping down through the clag, the GPS came out which guided us down to Gertrude Saddle where we were once again in the open. We jogged our way back to the car, satisfied with an epic day in the hills to start a week in the Darrans.
 |
| Tom traversing the steeper section of ridge before Traverse Pass (Conor Vaessen) |
 |
| The exciting new sport of "Ice Bouldering" (Conor Vaessen) |
The next day we decided to make use of a morning of good weather, and paid a visit to the Shotwell Slabs, an easily accessible crag on the side of the Milford Road. After the 20 minute approach up a streambed, we laid out our gear at the bottom of “Eureka”, a 5 pitch, bolted route stretching 220m up the impressive slabs. Conor led the first 2 pitches (Grade 20) with confidence, oozing up the slab with a combination of smeary feet and palming hands. The second pitch was made more tricky by a slippery sheet of water that unfortunately soaked all the nice handholds. We both worked around it, sticking to the less featured but dry rock either side. I led the next pitch, suddenly reminded how much more committed you have to be when trusting a smeared foot on a lump of granite, far beyond your last bolt. Nonetheless, we made our way up the final 3 pitches, Conor just completing the last few moves to the top as raindrops began to fall, instantly soaking the rock. We briefly celebrated our timely completion of the route before contemplating the long, wet descent ahead. Not having brought shells, we both donned our Macpac Pulsar synthetic down jackets, which kept us toasty despite being sodden with Fiordland rainfall. The abseils were fairly uncomfortable. As the soaking rope passed through the ATC, an intense spray of muddy water squirted from the device, soaking our faces, hands, clothes, everything really. We got back to the car fairly bedraggled but stoked with a well utilised morning in the Darrans.
 |
| The Shotwell Slabs (Conor Vaessen) |
 |
| Tom ascending the 4th pitch of Eureka (20) |
Comments
Post a Comment