Ailsa Stream Ice Climbing

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Lottie leading a climb (Maddy Whittaker)


Party: Lottie Armstrong, Chris Greenan, Maddy Whittaker, Torea Scott Fyfe, Rowan Cox, Jamie Gardner, Luca K

This trip had its logistical challenges. Ice climbing at the head of Ailsa Stream involves a 30km approach, and we had seven people, 1 small 4WD (seats two) and only two days. We stacked the 4WD with packs and Luca and Rowan drove, while Lottie, Chris and I biked. Jamie and Torea stoically ran, until all varied modes of transport were abandoned and the plugging began.

Lottie and Chris biking (Maddy Whittaker)

Plugging (Maddy Whittaker) 

Wehooo ice had indeed formed! (Maddy Whittaker) 


Arriving at the ice with the whole afternoon ahead of us, Jamie, Luca, Torea and I were stoked to give ice climbing a go for the first time. The first few tries were very uncoordinated but gradually we started to glimpse the rhythm. Oh man, this kind of climbing was something else - immensely satisfying.

Chris getting stuck in (Maddy Whittaker) 

Maddy getting angry at some ice (Jamie Gardner)

Snow camping (Maddy Whittaker)


Later that evening as we set up tents in the snow, logistical problem number 2 arose. We realised through miscommunication we had left a tent in Wanaka, and so had two two man tents for seven people. And so that was how I ended up part of a four person sandwich in a macpac minaret, including someone who's at least six foot. The spooning game was strong.

Early the next morning, Jamie, Torea and I nipped up to Ailsa Pass to see sunrise over Aoraki and the Murchison. A morning of ice climbing followed. Weather was due in that evening and so as the spindrift and wind rose and the temperatures fell, we packed up and headed home, with a nice bike/run back down the Cass valley to cap off an awesome weekend.

Looking back down Ailsa Stream from below Ailsa Pass (Maddy Whittaker) 

From left to right: Maddy, Jamie, Rowan, Lottie, Torea, Chris and Luca 




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