Butterfly Buttress: The 33 hr Epic

Party: Conor Vaessen and Scott Van Heerden

Like any other trip you’d do:

• Research 



Scott and myself during type I fun

• Read trip reports 
• Plan 
• Execute

On some trips things happen:

• Timing of trip plan fails…

On the rare occasion during a trip:

• Continuous failure of trip timing…

On our trip:

• Timing absolutely out the window

Butterfly Buttress, 500m of grade 14 climbing, a day of fun! After a lot of debating whether to pursue Butterfly Buttress or Weta Prowl, Butterfly seemed like a good first alpine rock route for both Scott and myself, potentially having a slightly shorter approach. It’d be a solid choice but our ambitious planning was a little off for first timers. 

After I’d sent only a dozen or so trad routes but practising trad anchors all the time whilst socialising at Long Beach we decided to pull the trigger on Butterfly Buttress just before Easter. Waiting for a good weather window, we polished up on rescue techniques and sorted the more detailed aspects of what gear to bring and how to go about the adventure. Many trip reports use the biv site on the map, but after talking with a few people that have done it - they all said they’d be able to send Butterfly car to car as a day trip and so this is what we tried…

3:30am Saturday we wake up in the Temple Basin shelter, leaving promptly at 4am along the North Temple track. Trad gear, rope, food, warm clothes and rain jacket in hand - enough to smash the trip out in a day. Making good time along the track, we head on up towards the col. just past the second stream.

Sunrise at the bushline on way up to the col.

At first we estimate starting to climb at 10am. However, hitting the bushline at sunrise we re-estimate this to be 11am if we’re fast (we are not fast). Our line up to the col. was interesting, crossing some fun terrain. We checked out the biv site and at this point are blissfully unaware of how much nicer it would’ve been to camp there. Filling up our drink bottles, we eventuated at the top at 10:30am, not too shabby. A bite of morning tea and a new estimated start of climb time of 11:30am - sweet!

Pit stop overlooking the Naumann and Ben Ohau Ranges.

Our descent to the start of the climb takes a little longer than anticipated, arriving at 12:30pm. From here we have a quick lunch, rack up and I begin the first pitch of Butterfly Buttress. It takes quite a long while to get into the groove, spending an age setting up the first anchor. Things are not looking good time-wise if I don’t step up.

Scott seconding the first pitch

Scott at the belay getting a lay of the land

Thankfully, as I get used to the interesting rock of the area (read: chossy, thin flakes, fins of dubious rock to place gear between, teetering boulders the size of microwaves) my climbing and placements become far more fluid and our pace increases dramatically. Things become thoroughly enjoyable and we start simuling - although this is hard with 70m rope drag…

We estimate we’re more than ¾ of the way up when it starts to get dark. Unbeknownst to us, our pace would dramatically decrease under nightfall. Each belay I carried out I got progressively colder and slowly realised moving was the only way I was to keep warm. We arrive at the bottom of what probably would’ve been the last pitch only to decide it was quite committing. Instead, I see what I think to be a sidle around to a ridge through a scree covered chute and pursue this line (bad idea). 

Last view before dark looking down into the top of South Temple

The chute is hard going so I try scramble up the side to an adjacent peak. I set up a belay here and shiver. I try to keep the wind off, bringing my knees under my jacket to keep the wind off, but it only brings slight relief. Scott approaches and sees I’m in a miserable way, he too is mentally drained after following the somewhat committing moves I led up the side of the chute. We sit together and share homemade vegan donuts (the best I’ve ever had) and contemplate our situation. I appreciate Scott’s level headedness and our objective decision making, there’s really only one choice - to keep going, keep moving, and keep warm. 

Out of my first aid kit we both pop a no-doze. Not just a study aid, this is exactly what I need to lead the next and final pitch. We decide my route choice was marginal and hence I down climb the side of the chossy chute and continue up its gun barrel. The going gets steeper and less like scree. I needed not be nervous for this last pitch; it utterly surprised me! My renewed energy aside, I climb what must’ve been the most enjoyable pitch of the climb! Popping drop knees, bridging, and palming down off of every surface, I start to have a bit of type I fun again!

12:30am. We top out of Butterfly Buttress. Now buffeted by wind and very light showers, we do not know the difficultly of the scramble off the ridgeline or the consequence of a fall. We decide to stay roped up and move along to Bruce peak, sidle it, and head for its north-east ridge. Our plan was to follow the route from a previous trip to get off the tops, however, route finding proves extremely difficult in the dark forcing us to turn around many times. 

We stop at a miniature saddle on the the north-east ridge of Bruce Peak. It is here we unrope and realise how much time has passed since the top of Butterfly, ~ 5.5 hours (roping up isn’t always good kids). Contemplating what to do, shivering again, we realise we can't stay here. Maintaining warmth in the buffeting winds and miserable drizzle would be futile. I keep moving, following a path, turning around at a dead end, and making my way back to Scott. Repeat. Repeat. We consider a very steep scree slope but can’t see its end. Chancing it, we follow, irrespective of knowing there are many dead end bluffs ahead. Miraculously; it goes. Each directional decision seems to be a lucky strike, even as the descent gets more committing.

First light on the tops of the Naumann Range

Dawn. The path of our approach is reached. Relief. We watch the sunrise and are warmed by its sight. 

All is not over, but mentally the job is finished. Our descent to North Temple track is slow and laboured but we’re happy that it’s daylight. Scott bum shuffles down the hill, his legs exhausted, ripping his favourite pants. We’re happy though: but we’ll never do this again. 

We split before we hit North Temple track, choosing different paths that will be easier for each of us; meeting back at the stream crossing we continue. We’re exhausted and more up-spirited: but still, we might not do this again. 

Time goes quickly but no longer is there urgency in our step. We reach the car at 1pm Sunday. 33 hours after we left it at 4am the previous day. We unload. Our packs off, we feel light with the relief of finishing. I’m thankful to my past self for leaving porridge to cold soak. I cut the corner off a ziplock bag and pipe into me the most nourishing oats I’ve ever tasted. Tired, relieved, and happy; but still, we probably won’t do this again soon.

A half hour nap and we drive home. Scott takes the wheel first while I get another 20 minute nap. Scott starts seeing illusions: a boulder on the road shoulder takes the form of an oncoming car. We swap drivers… multiple stops for dinner later we arrive in Dunedin. 12 hours sleep and work the next day - what a weekend; but still, we might do this again?

A happy and relieved Scott on starting the descent to North Temple Track

Post trip: 

• Scott lost 2.6 kg over the weekend. After talking we realise I don’t eat enough in general and not nearly enough protein. 
• We come to appreciate what we can put our bodies through; good knowledge to have that one can stay functional for so long. 
• We would change a few things next time but do not regret the choices we made while climbing, learning a lot from our experience. 
• Looking back at the trip, this was the epitome of type II fun, we’re relieved; but still, we think… 

This was a great time and who am I kidding, we'd definitely do it again! (just quicker)